Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children do not want to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
